I. LOVE. LYON. It's awesome. So quaint and cleaner than Paris (especially the metro) and the people are so much nicer! Some guy just came up to our group in the square yesterday and explained that he works at one of the museums and that students get in for free so he would love to have us. That would NEVER happen in Paris. Even though we did get in for free a lot with our art cards they seemed kind of annoyed that we were cheating the system or something. (Of course there were some really nice people too). But it really does seem like there's a papable difference in the air of Lyon. And the architecture is really different too, it's much more Italianate than in Paris.
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| A Renaissance courtyard, they are all over Vieux Lyon |
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| La Tour Rose, one of the most famous in Lyon |
So Lyon. After saying goodbye to Claude, we headed to Gare de Lyon in Paris and hopped on a 2-and-a-half hour train to Lyon. I love trains, they are soooo much better than airplanes here. Although the whole dragging-the-huge-suitcase-around-the-metro thing wasn't so fun. I'm pretty sure it weighs more than half of me, at one point some old man felt sorry for me and carried it up the rest of the way. My arms and shoulders are totally sore, especially after all the staircases and then the gravel driveway to the hotel. But it was all worth it, cause we had dinner at a traditional Lyonnaise restaurant last night and it was amazing!
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It's called Les Ventres Jaunes "The Yellow Bellies"
We sat at those yellow tables |
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| The appetizer: millefeuilles aux legumes |
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| Entree: Saucisson de Lyon |
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Dessert: Ile Flottante. Sooooo good. It's a meringue drizzled with caramel
on top of crème anglaise. It was the best thing ever. |
Today was super cool and also very long. After a breakfast of 3 different kinds of bread, hot chocolate and yogurt (the only things at the hotel breakfast) we headed out to see Vieux Lyon, the old Renaissance quarter of the city, with our professor. Hudson specializes in the Renaissance so he knows Lyon really well, it's his favorite city. So that was awesome, he knew where all of the courtyards and passageways were. Here's some examples:
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This is a Renaissance well, the rich families had them
inside their own private courtyards |
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| Le Maison Henri IV |
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The home of a really famous architect from the Renaissance
he designed it, but his name escapes me |
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| The bright colors are the same as the originals |
After our tour of Vieux Lyon, we headed over to 2 museums about the early printing industry-Lyon (along with Geneva) was a major printing city in the 1500s. It was super interesting!!
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one of the first printing moulds, before the printing press
It was hand-painted to create playing cards (see below) |
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| The cards! |
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| our tour guide showing us the trays for printing-he designs fonts for his career |
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| the type |
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| Showing us how it works on an authentic press from the 1500s |
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Our second tour guide demonstrating on a reproduction-she's
a lithographer and artist |
I learned some super interesting facts like:
- The reason we call letters "uppercase" and "lowercase" in English is because the uppercase letters were in the upper case, or top part of the drawer, while little letters were in the lower case.
- "Mind your p's and q's" comes from the fact that a "p" letter was a p, q, b & d just by switching the direction.
- the typesetters were nicknamed "singes" or monkeys, because they were on the top floor of the house and had to be quick with their hands
- the men who worked the presses were called "ours" or bears because they had to be super strong and were usually bad-tempered
- French printers didn't originally have a spot for the letters w, j or u because in Middle French there's no w, j is an i and u is a v
- the ink ball was called something "du chien" because they had to use dog skin for the leather so that the ink wouldn't soak in (because dogs don't sweat, so there's no pores)
- the expression in French for kids who do the same job as their parents comes from printing and has to do with the ink paddle things (I forget what they are called) because their children would help out
- Gutenberg invented moveable type, not the printing press
- The Chinese did invent printing first, but they used wood and not metal so it wasn't very efficient
- italic font was invented by the same guy who invented the pocket-size book because he needed to fit more letters on a page
We also got to see some pretty cool originals
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| A page from one of Gutenberg's original bibles from 1450 |
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| An original "placard" from the Placards Affair. The protestants posted these all over the city and even one on the king's bedroom protesting Catholicism. It resulted in François Ier cracking down on Protestants and the end of the printing trade in Lyon because they all had to move to Geneva. It's one of only 10 originals in the world and the only one available to the public |
That museum was definitely one of my favorites of the whole trip if you can't tell ;)
After the museum we headed back to the hotel and crashed for a 2 hour nap-that was heavenly. Then we grabbed dinner and were going to meet the rest of the group at the bottom of the huge hill to climb up and see the basilica at the top. However, dinner took forever and then we almost got stuck on the metro because a bunch of drunk gypsies were blocking the entrance (they were soooo wasted and had a stroller full of beer). And then we thought we lost Lacey (but we didn't). Anyways by the time we actually made it to the metro stop we just decided to take the Funicular up in hopes of catching up to everyone else. Luckily we did end up finding them, and took a bunch of fun pictures-the view was beautiful!
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| the sky turned out really cool |
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| me and Rachel! |
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| the basilica |
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| goofing off |
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| Caleb messing around with my camera |
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| Gustav Eiffel built this tower too, but it's not as famous. The guards saw me taking a picture of it and said "En faite, ce n'est pas la Tour Eiffel..." (Actually that's not the Eiffel Tower...) haha. I laughed and said "je sais" (I know) but I really should have played along and "Non! Vraiment?" haha |
The rest of the night only got more hilarious, I haven't laughed so hard in a really long time. Basically it went from:
- learning the Melbourne shuffle outside of the Basilica
- Erin imitating an old lady and E.T.
- the entire group playing the animal game (including Dr Hudson. that was the best part, he's hilarious. That and Caleb forgetting Erin's name...if you want to see a video, Rachel posted at the bottom of her post here)
- people jumping out at each other in the forest on the way down
- us marching in a single file line through the metro following Hudson (it was his idea) and trying not to crack up at people's reactions......
Yeah it pretty much gets more and more ridiculous. It was sooo funny. I don't know what it is about Lyon and nighttime but both nights we've all been super hyper. And this picture basically sums it up:
I love Lyon!
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